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by Mike C. -
Aaaaah, breaker points! Don’t
you just love to continually check the gap, clean them if necessary,
replace both the points and condensor, and keep tabs on your timing? I
personally like the "throw it in and forget it" peace of mind
that the solid-state ignitions provide. Don’t get me wrong, points are
actually very reliable pieces if they are given the proper attention just
like the rest of your VW engine. Anyone who owns and drives an air-cooled
VW knows that they are not maintenance-free relative to today’s cars,
but you can get that much closer if you install one of the several
solid-state ignitions that are out there.
Just
how does a solid-state ignition work? It works by using a Hall-effect
magnetic rotor ring that slips on over the part of the distributor shaft
where the points rub against. The points and condensor are replaced by a
self-contained sensor and electronic triggering device. The rotor ring
contains four magnets spaced 90 degrees apart. When one of the magnets
passes by the sensor, the sensor then detects this and triggers the coil
to fire. Since there is no contact made between the rotor ring and the
sensor, nothing wears out, and the timing and dwell always remain
constant. These solid-state units usually have a little more dwell
programmed in, as well as increased current output, so the spark lasts a
bit longer and is stronger, as well. What this means is that your fuel
mixture is burned more completely and will give you a slight power
increase over the points, plus your rpm limit will be extended, and your
gas mileage will be a little higher on average. The conversion kits I know
of are Pertronix, Compufire, Mallory Unilite, and Crane. The one I have
recently installed is a Pertronix Ignitor, and I will use this as the
basis for the article. The other units I listed will be similar to
install.
You will need:
- 10mm Ratchet/Socket Small regular-slot
Screwdriver
- 3/16" Nutdriver Magic Marker
- Timing light.
If your distributor cap,
rotor, and plug wires have seen better days, replace them now to avoid
problems later.
- Start by taking off the distributor cap.
You can just leave the wires on the cap and move the cap aside.
- Next, pull the rotor off.
- Mark the distributor on the body and
clamp so you can have a good reference to put it back where it was to
re-time everything. Now loosen the distributor clamp with the 10mm
socket and rotate the distributor so you can gain clearance to remove
the condensor.
- Take the condensor loose with the
screwdriver and pull the wire off the ignition coil. You will no
longer need the condensor, but don’t throw it away.
- Put the screw back in that held the
condensor to the body, as it also holds one side of the vacuum advance
on if you are working on a vacuum advance distributor.
- Pull the points wire off the connector
inside the distributor. Remove the points with the regular
screwdriver, but don’t throw the points or screw away. Undo the
screw on the other side of the distributor body that holds the wire
grommet in and pull the grommet out along with the wire that connected
to the coil.
Don’t throw any of these
old parts away. Clean off the distributor shaft where the points used to
rub against. Now you are ready to install your solid-state
ignition.
- There is an adapter plate that mounts
exactly in the same spot where the points went. Install it with the
screw included in the kit.
- Now get your solid-state unit and slide
it on the mounting studs. Put the small nuts on, but don’t get them
tight yet.
- Take the rotor ring and put it on the
distributor shaft. Rotate it until it lines up with the shape of the
rubbing block on the distributor shaft, then push it on. The fit will
be snug and you can use the distributor rotor to help push it on
there.
- Push the wires through the hole and push
the grommet through to lock them in place. You will have to pull the
wires through the grommet to adjust the length.
- Get the clear plastic piece that is
included in the kit. This is about .030" thick (use a feeler gage
if you don’t find this piece) and will be used to set the correct
spacing between the rotor ring and solid-state unit. Put the piece
between the rotor ring and solid-state unit, butt the unit up against
the inserted piece, and while holding the unit against the piece,
tighten down the nuts fairly snug with the nut driver.
- Hook the red wire to the + side of the
distributor coil and the black wire to the –side of the coil.
- Put the distributor rotor and cap with
wires back on, line up the marks you made on the distributor body and
clamp, then fire up the engine.
- Hook the timing light up and set your
timing to whatever spec you use. Lock the distributor down and that’s
it!
From now on, you can turn
your maintenance attention elsewhere, as you should be able to get years
of service out of the solid-state system without ever going inside the
distributor.
Remember all the stuff I
told you not to throw away? Get a ziplock bag and put the old points,
condensor, and all the hardware in the bag and keep it, plus the essential
tools, to have as a back-up just in case the solid-state unit fails. I
have had no trouble from any of these, but if they go out on you in the
back roads somewhere, you can’t band-aid it home like you can with
points (the only disadvantage I see to using solid-state).
By the way, the Pertronix
and the others work with MSD capacitive discharge units (I used one of
these on my ’74 Super Beetle with success), Jacob’s Bugpack ignition
systems, and most any ignition coil you want to use except inductive-type
coils (these will burn the solid-state units out unless they are designed
to work with those coils). You notice that your distributor is not as
cluttered, since you do not use the condensor. Nice for show cars and when
you need extra clearance around the fuel pump and carb bolts. I got mine
at Roy Rogers for around $60. Mail order catalogs sometimes have them a
bit cheaper, but shipping will likely more than make up for the difference
you would save otherwise. Decreased maintenance means more time to enjoy
that bratwurst burger!
Your VW Maniac And Tech Specialist,
Mike C. |